Spain happened to be a trip of utter ill fortune for the two of us. At several moments, we regretted even to have started this trip in the very first place. From missing the onward flight, being fooled by a notorious bus driver, encountering creepy hostels to being homeless for several nights in the middle of Barcelona. Everything had gone wrong…
Until we set foot in the medieval town of Montuïri.
Montuïri’s remote location – perfect for a tranquil escape
Montuïri (mountain-town in Latin), a town no larger than a single kilometer, is located in the central region of the Spanish island ‘Mallorca’. While the island’s vibrant capital, Palma de Mallorca draws diverse and party-loving crowd, Montuïri remains a tucked away gem, one of the few places that reflect Mallorcan roots. With a population of less than 3000, this town’s timeless charm has seemingly stayed intact over the generations, with remnants from as far back as the Bronze age!
Open doors and welcoming hearts
Strolling through the streets of Montuïri, one intriguing sight caught our attention the most- a majority of the residents here kept their main doors open. While this is a very common practice in most of the Indian villages, it was unusual to see this in a European context where communities often prefer privacy and seclusion. We were transported back to our travels in Indian villages where open doors symbolized warm invitations and a glimpse into resident’s personal world. This left us pondering: What hidden tales awaited behind these welcoming thresholds? And indeed, this medieval town turned out to be the star of the show from our itinerary.
Amidst the vast expanse of Mallorca, the only shelter of affordability for budget travelers like us happened to be the Embat hostel where we had booked our stay. This was the only reason we even found out about Montuïri. Little did we know that the fatigue of our journey was about to dissipate by a heart-warming welcome. Picture this: an elderly couple deeply engrossed in the pages of their newspapers. On the table before them, rested steaming cups of morning coffee. Despite the steep incline of the street, the couple exuded an air of serenity, seated rather comfortably in chairs that were visibly off-balance. They appeared to be in an undisturbed world of their own. But a world we were welcomed into with open arms. The smiling old duo ran the spick hostel along with their son. Although they barely understood a word of English, we managed to interact with the help of Google translate. Google saves the day, no surprise!
The town’s captivatingly picturesque corners
Most of the local houses were built from natural sandstone. These structures also displayed a uniform architectural style with massive wooden doors and narrow rectangular windows with lush-green louvers. While the thick stone walls kept the interiors cool, the thin slit windows brought in just enough light without added heat. The always-open main doors enabled air circulation, with curtains providing privacy and shade. Varieties of cacti adorned the porches and the window sills. Rustic Spanish tiles contrasted warm ochre tones of the stone masonry. Narrow footpaths followed the hilly terrain of the town. The only glitch in this whole picture was the jarring black, from that of the freshly laid tar roads, completely out of place. Only at the main square you could see the original cobbles. Even this isolated settlement wasn’t free from the curse of the cars. On the bright side, every street we walked through was immaculately clean.
Beyond the limits of the town’s ancient walls, all we could see were vast expanses of grain fields with hues of green and yellow. Some crops dry while some ready to be harvested. A nearby information board taught us that the fertile land of Montuïri favored varieties of grain crops and with that came the construction of the windmills to convert all the produce into saleable flour. These old and ancient windmills were no longer functioning but continue to dominate the skyline of Montuïri today. Moli de Can Nofre museum showcases a well-preserved windmill, worth visiting. The panoramic view of the town from atop the museum is serene and catches the hilly breeze. We took in a long and deep breath, slowly whispering a chant of gratitude to mother nature.
Embracing the Spanish Siesta
Feeling drained from the day’s scorching heat, we made a spontaneous decision to try out the Spanish tradition of ‘Siesta’, a few blocks away from the museum. Although the concept of Siesta was not entirely foreign to us, as it is quite a common practice in various regions of India, we couldn’t help but wonder how the warmer regions across the world displayed the same human behaviour, irrespective of ethnicity. At the edge of the town, with Montuïri’s pure ambience and the gentle caressing breeze, provided just the perfect setting for a power nap. As we peacefully dozed off in an open public space for the very first time in our lives, we quietly reflected on the absence of such security and tranquility in today’s modern cities.
Grocery shopping from Montuïri’s very own Monday market
We were fortunate that our travel dates coincided with the weekly Monday market, allowing us to shop like a local. The market happens in the town’s main square, pulling in all the residents in front of the St. Bartomeu. It was like a small and intimate affair between the residents and the vendors, where everyone seemed to know each other. There were various stalls offering regional fruits, vegetables, handicrafts and apparels. The cheap price of groceries lured us into buying some fresh fruits and vegetables. Akin to gold for vegans like us, we never miss out on such a chance.
Montuïri’s magic wasn’t just in its market but also in its people
On one of the evenings, we stumbled upon a local restaurant Myotragus , with little hope of finding plant-based options on the menu. As we walked in, we were greeted by a charming man who also happened to be the restaurant’s chef. Keenly listening to our personal request for a vegan meal, he promised to create something special for us. With a twinkle in his eye and a chef’s determination, he took off. As we waited, we couldn’t help but wonder what culinary surprise awaited us. It was an artful combination of a nutritious salad combined with patatas bravas (baked potatoes). Oh, what a meal that was! Rafael, the gifted chef, not only showcased his culinary skills but also embodied the warmth and hospitality of Montuïri.
Mallorca’s transportation challenges
Montuïri’s idyllic location makes it a bit challenging to reach the beautiful coastal areas of Mallorca. Since we relied entirely on public transportation, we took local buses that operated on an hourly schedule, albeit with limited operating routes. The process of buying bus tickets here had its quirks, highly advanced and quite distinct from other places in Spain. To start with, buying a ticket onboard was cheaper than an online purchase. Secondly, the ticket vending machine had an inbuilt tap in and tap out facility, calculating your fare electronically. It would initially debit a flat €20 and later refund the balance fare, upon summing up the entire day’s trips! Mallorca was clearly keeping pace with the high influx of rich tourists. And it certainly helped promote sustainable travel within the island. We could even visit the enormous and popular caves of Drach (Cuevas del Drach), a prehistoric underground formation by the southeastern coast of Mallorca.
Montuïri by the night
Night-time in a city or a town can sometimes provide a whole new picture compared to the day. And the nights in Montuïri were no less, transforming into a safe haven for nyctophiles. While wandering through the quiet and dark streets, we were convinced that the town had already retired for the night. Yet, as we approached some houses, we discovered that the locals here, just like other Spaniards, stayed up until late watching TV; the whole family cuddling up in the living room. And some residents chose to savor the late hours in the cool outdoors, setting up their chairs on the streets lit by warm and vintage lamps.
That last night in this mystic town, as we headed back to our dorm, Shiva whispered, “Do you really want to go back home?” It seemed like he was drawing words from my own mind. Just two nights at what some would call an ‘uninteresting’ place had completely flipped our misfortunes inside out. Sometimes in life, all we are looking for is a complete and total shutdown. And Montuïri had given us just that, when we had least expected it in on our plates. For sure, it will hold a dear place in our hearts.
Barriers and Borders
Hi ! We’re Forum and Shiva, two intrepid souls united by our shared love for TRAVEL and SUSTAINABILITY. We met as architectural colleagues and we both spent some years exploring sustainable and socially responsible architecture. Our mutual fascination for vernacular architecture, traditional communities, and the curiosity to witness the natural world.. all led us to build this little nest: Barriers and Borders.
Our mission is simple – to bring you meaningful stories from the small or the big journeys that we make which could allow you to see the world differently. To let you join our journeys through our words.. to touch upon those little details that maybe get missed.. and above all to attempt to give back to the places we are privileged to visit in this lifetime.
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Really superb writing, I understood your joy,happiness and sorrow when you felt cheated. You met nice people.Wonderful.Keep exploring ,keep writing.Blessings
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