It was early morning in Kochi’s Vypin island, with ambient sounds of cawing crows and rowing canoes. The damp, warm air had by now wrapped itself around me – almost like a second layer of clothing, clinging onto my skin. Though I had merely traveled from Mumbai – a coastal cousin, so to say, the humidity here had a rather stronger and distinct presence: probably due to the infusion of the saltiness from the Arabian Sea to the west along with the humus-laden earthiness emanating from the backwaters in the east.
I was standing by the water’s edge along with Gishnu, a naturalist who was to be my local guide. We were waiting beside the home of a sand collector who was preparing his canoe for our little journey through the water. Yes, I was about to embark on my much awaited punting experience through the local mangrove trails! I was visibly excited. But that’s when I noticed:
A massive heap of plastic debris, amidst this nearly flawless, serene backdrop. Bottles, wrappers, baskets, cans, and what not – all of it collected within what looked like a fishing net. Where is all of this ugly trash coming from? And why were they gathering it here? Most importantly, where would this waste eventually end up?
I had heard plenty about the idea of ‘regenerative’ travel – of choosing and supporting those activities while on the road, that give back to local communities and the environment, while also enriching our own travel experience. But it wasn’t until the thoughtfully planned journey from Kochi to Kozhikode with The Blue Yonder that I witnessed this in action, and that too, in each of my local interactions. It was a revelation for me – seeing firsthand how meaningful travel could, indeed, serve a GREATER purpose.
Disclosure: The experiences detailed in this blog post are part of a collaboration with The Blue Yonder, a company that curates unique, responsible, and meaningful travel experiences in Kerala. While my stay and meals were hosted, all thoughts and opinions expressed here are my own.
You can book a similar journey through The Blue Yonder.
Table of Contents
- Meeting the ‘Mangrove Man’ and his dearest kin of mangrove forests
- Trekking with forest officials and ‘Cruising’ along the Periyar river
- Kerala’s art-scene is limitless – One state, multitude of flavors
- Learning the art of weaving with natural grass
- Staying at the 350-year old Kodeeri Mana homestay
- Walking through the history book that is Fort Kochi and Muziris port city
- Trying my hands at Pottery & Meeting the potters of Thrissur
- Exploring the oldest Jewish community of Cochin
- Kayaking for the first time in Chaliyar river
- Visiting a ‘Pokkali’ rice farm – Kerala’s oldest, organically cultivated crop
- Nilavala – a twilight dinner on a Chinese Fishing Net
1. Meeting the ‘Mangrove Man’ and his dearest kin of mangrove forests
It is not often that our planet bears witness to a persona like T. P. Murugesan. Fondly known as the ‘Mangrove Man’, Murugesan has been the silent guardian of Kochi’s fragile, coastal ecosystem. You might have heard about mangroves’ crucial role in our ecosystem: that of carbon sequestration, but meeting him taught me how these ‘super forests’ also serve as a protective shield against natural disasters. “The last floods that struck Kerala were nearly chest-high,” Murugesan recounted, “Many of my own neighbors lost their homes.”
Murugesan, much like me, once worked in the construction industry. However, it wasn’t long until he witnessed his neighborhood change from tidal flooding. The sight of salt-laden air corroding the walls of homes and the resulting plight of local lives urged him to take action. He began planting mangrove saplings in and around Vypin island to combat rising sea levels and the periodic flooding. “That whole clump you see there was planted by me 10 years ago,” said he, in his still very humble, unassuming voice. I could sense that his quest was far from done.
That brings me back to the dismaying sight of plastic that had kick-started my mangrove trail journey. Seeing the evident look of surprise on my face, Gishnu had explained to me that this plastic, indeed collected from these very sacred waters, would however be sent to a social entrepreneurship initiative for recycling into pellets used in construction. “We are doing everything in our power”, he remarked, “but the plastics don’t cease to show up.”
The canoe ride with Gishnu had showed me the infinite number of species that call these mangrove forests home – black-headed ibises, ospreys, plovers, sandpipers, to otters, molluscs, and crabs, that breed in the safe haven that the stilt roots and the snorkel like roots, together provide. As he explained, he lowered his skimmer net in the water, almost involuntarily, picking out a… yeah you guessed it, a plastic bottle!
2. Trekking with forest officials and ‘Cruising’ along the Periyar river
The Kerala rainforests belong to the western ghats, one of the top-eight biodiversity hotspots in the world. The subject of many-a-wildlife documentary, it is a privilege for those who get to walk its interiors. Particularly so, when the trek is led by members of the Forest department. Guided by a mostly-women team, the 7-hour hike in the Vazhachal rainforest opened a gateway into the deeply intricate world of a tropical rainforest. Among a whole array of easy-to-comprehend botany and zoology lessons that I was taught by the people who safeguard these lands, some include the fact that the chorus calls of an insect as tiny as the ‘Cicada’ could reflect the very health of a rainforest, or that mud-coated tree trunks indicate the proximity of Asian elephants.
When my itinerary read ‘Cruising… ’, my mind was already bringing up images of large motorized ships that not just pollute important water bodies but are also run by companies who couldn’t care less for the environment. But my “cruise” through the Periyar, Kerala’s longest river, however, was none of this. It was in fact a simple canoe and the ride itself was designed as a means to raise environmental awareness. When we turned into the Chalakkudy river, a major tributary of the Periyar, we made a stop at a man-made bund of sand constructed across the river. Sajeev, my guide, explained that while the Periyar’s downstream water has always been brackish due to seawater influx, in recent times however, this influx against the river’s natural flow has traveled further upstream, affecting other fresh water bodies as well. This is due to rising sea levels coupled with the reduced feed in the rivers. Sajeev added “And then there’s the industrial pollution on top of all this. You can realize the scale of the problem.”
3. Kerala’s art-scene is limitless – One state, multitude of flavors
Whether you’re a cultural enthusiast or not, once you step into ‘God’s own country’, you’re bound to be immersed in the cultural concoction that is Kerala. And to my fortune, I didn’t just experience one, but many live & intimate performances, with behind-the-scenes interactions with the lovely artists. Sometimes under the shade of a tree, sometimes in the foreground of a temple, these outdoor experiences were a treat to the senses.
The Panchavadyam performance, an orchestra of five instruments, by artists from the Sopanam school of Panchavadyam, took place in the open verandah of a Shiva temple. The reverberating sounds were so captivating that I found myself drifting with the rhythmic beats. Such seamless coordination, as though they were in a different realm altogether. The distinctive sound and appearance of the ‘idakka’ drew my attention, so I had to try my hand!
Similarly, the ‘Vattamudi’ folk performance took place under a gigantic cashew tree. Artists from the Ekaru Kalasangam have honed their skills over many years. The entire act depicted the story of Kali and Darikan. Watching a young boy effortlessly portray the fierceness of Kali was enough to win my admiration for the art form. As it concluded, I heard the distant calls of peacocks, and I knew they too, were applauding the talent on display.
“The last floods that struck Kerala were nearly chest-high.
Many of my own neighbors lost their homes.That whole clump you see there was planted by me 10 years ago.”
T. P. Murugesan.
4. Learning the art of weaving with natural grass
Anyone who grew up in a South Indian household would be familiar with grass mats. Once commonplace, today these mats have been replaced by plastic versions. And the fact that nearly 3.5 million Keralites now reside in Gulf countries is a major factor for this downfall of an age-old practice. The proliferation of colorful plastic mats and other products in local households, however, hasn’t budged the firm resolve of a certain group of dedicated artisans, who will do anything to keep their art form alive.
During my visit to the Killimangalam weaving center, predominantly run by women, I had the opportunity to engage with these soldiers, to whom ‘Kora-grass’ was the lifelong armor. Their enthusiasm to showcase their long perfected skills was infectious, as they welcomed me to have a go at it. When I sat at the weaving machine, weaving in a few stems myself, I couldn’t help but admire their resilience. Despite facing challenges in sales, these women remain steadfast in their commitment to preserving their practice which, to them means much more than just a means of employment – it is a sense of community and belonging, something that they’ll never let fade away. Their current innovative move to design sling bags and folders using this natural material is testament to their response to the growing times.
5. Staying at the 350-year old Kodeeri Mana homestay
As a sucker for traditional architectural styles, I was drawn to the Nālukettu style of architecture that the ‘Kodeeri Mana’ homestay was built in. Also, the energy of my dear hosts Umaji and Nambooji, who were full of inspiring stories, made my stay here all the more insightful.
Kodeeri Mana was just the space I needed to unwind from, after all the travel exhaustion from the previous days. The farm-to-table food that Umaji cooked was so comforting with perfectly crisp dosas for breakfast and a simple south Indian meal for dinner. Nambooji, a water management specialist as well as a passionate sustainable architecture researcher and consultant, showed me around his mini-forest-like farmland: banana, coconut, nutmeg, mango, etc that he has been growing naturally. On a leisurely walk with him, we discussed topics revolving around mindful living, self-sufficiency, water management and so on. The couple never ran out of amazing stories – of all the people they’ve hosted, of all the travels they’ve made and that constant buzz of a zest for a healthier future!
6. Walking through the history book that is Fort Kochi and Muziris port city
After hearing about the Kochi-Muziris Biennale for so many years as an architect, I finally learnt what “Muziris” in the term ‘Kochi-Muziris’ actually is – a bold marker on the navigation maps of early human civilizations, an ancient harbor, a once-flourishing urban center, a major checkpoint on a historic trade route as old as 3000 years. I was no less than shocked, surprised and proud even to learn about the many far-away nations that Muziris attracted, connecting South India to Persia, North Africa, the Mediterranean Romans and Greeks, as well as the Middle east. The Romans brought in gold coins, wine, copper among other goods in exchange for the black gold of Muziris – PEPPER.
Devaki Raman, from the Kochi Heritage Project proved to be a fantastic young guide for me on my very first day in Fort Kochi. And unlike any other guided walks, this story walk of Fort Kochi with her was so engrossing, that I was mentally teleported to the land & culture which graced this region all those centuries ago. Apart from drowning myself in stories of history, I tasted the British-inspired plum cake with marmalade in Eighth Bastion, rolled my eyes over the massive roof of David Hall and chatted about the whole art movement started by Anoop Skaria, that birthed the Kochi-Muziris Biennale.
7. Trying my hands at Pottery & Meeting the potters of Thrissur
While we all tend to think Terracotta is a sustainable alternative to plastics, did you know that clay as well, once burnt, remains as is for thousands of years? When I took a pottery class at Clay Fingers and modeled a little tortoise, I was happy to hear my instructor tell me herself that we should not bake it unless I really wanted to.
Renovated from a traditional brick and tile factory in Thrissur, the atmosphere at Clay Fingers was slow and relaxing – whether it was pottery or enjoying a delicious meal cooked by the home chefs.
I also visited a pottery factory nearby and met the traditional potters who’ve been making pots as well as well-rings for decades. From spinning the clay on the wheel to then beating up the still raw clay with a wooden paddle and then to polish it with more clay to finally letting it dry – although I might have seen the process before, trying some things myself revealed the associated difficulty and nuances.
As with all natural resources, clay too, takes years to form. And today the potters face challenges in sourcing the clay, requiring government permits and so on. The next time I buy a terracotta product I am sure there will be a lot on my mind to consider.
8. Exploring the oldest Jewish community of Cochin
Almost every sentence that Sajeev, my local guide through North Paravoor uttered, left me in sheer disbelief. “The Jewish community in Cochin can be traced back to the time when jews came to the Malabar coast for trade and some, to settle. They came from Yemen, Mesopotamia and even Spain and Portugal. It goes as far back as 70 CE.”
India had always been known as a nation that had its arms wide open to explorers of diverse communities, practicing different religions, and all of them coexisted in this land of a million colors (something that was changed completely during colonialism). And these oldest records of Jewish occupation in Cochin proves just that!
As Sajeev and I entered the Jewish synagogue of Chendamangalam, I scanned the registry of visitors and found most recent visitors to be from Israel. Their names revealed a lot. Sajeev even told me that the Jews were given special privileges in Kerala, for in return for their lending of ships during the war to the reigning rulers, they were allowed to build synagogues on Indian soil, and live freely – an example of a time which was displayed a rather progressive outlook: when human values stood above aspects of nationalities, race or religion. Just how beautiful and accepting my country was!
Why then did the Jews leave India when they had such a great life here?
The Jews of Cochin did not leave due to any form of persecution, but only due to the formation of the State of Israel in 1948 which triggered many to emigrate and live peacefully.
9. Kayaking for the first time in Chaliyar river
Picture this: It’s your first time ever trying kayaking and then your instructor asks you somewhere in the middle to jump in, take a dip and then… after a while… you’re handed a cup of hot hot tea, while you’re floating in the river, only to then watch the setting sun in the distant horizon slowly disappear into the water surface.
An evening that will surely linger on like gentle waves… with the songs of chirping birds returning home, sugarcoating all of it.
Being slightly water phobic, I have never got myself to jump in even in a pool, let alone a river! But Babaji from the Jellyfish resort assured me that I won’t drown and that I was safe with the life jacket, which also took a while to process (my fellow hydrophobes will relate).
Kayaking in Kerala’s backwaters is such a surreal experience – with the nearly current free water, first timers can enjoy this low on footprint, high on adrenaline activity, all the while admiring the uninhabited islands and its incredible biodiversity, at your own steady pace. On one end, I was nervous about hitting the mangroves and falling in the river, but on the other, I didn’t want this journey to end. Sometimes, I found myself completely letting go, stopping to row…. to simply gaze at the beauty I was surrounded by –
There’s truly no healing that comes close to being fully soaked in nature’s elements.
10. Visiting a ‘Pokkali’ rice farm – Kerala’s oldest, organically cultivated crop
Who survives when a region is hit by flood waters? The one who stands tall, isn’t it? That’s precisely what Pokk-aali is, which translates literally to ‘tall-plant.’ As folk legends go, this originally wild grass from the hills of the western ghats found its way to the lower shorelands of Kerala, when a severely flooded Periyar carried everything downstream. In an unfamiliar water-logged landscape, the Pokkali, over generations evolved genetically, rising in height and surviving the battle for survival.
The early settlers of this land identified this resilient pink-rice and began cultivating it here, a region where water salinity is very high, flooding is prevalent and the soil as well is blackish, with high carbon content.
When I visited Vincent in his Pokkali farm in Ezhikkara, I could observe the distinct and ingenious method of cultivation. Symbiotic in nature, it involves six months of paddy cultivation followed by prawn cultivation for the next half-year. The lower stems of the crop are left in the soil, which become feed for the growing prawns, who in return fertilize the soil with their waste and moult, all in time for the consecutive crop season. Lower lands are identified where water logging is modulated using sluice gates that control the tidal waters.
Earning a name as “Climate resilient crop”, Pokkali is however facing a new battle today, from the pressure & demands of the globalized market, putting the lives of these organic farmers in jeopardy. The good news though is that with the help of Cooperative banks and the local Panchayat, a Sustainable tourism model has been shaping up, helping these people and this unique grain to adapt once again – and stand TALL once again.
11. Nilavala – a twilight dinner on a Chinese Fishing Net
When a noble idea is combined with a very aesthetic presentation, this is what you get: The Nilavala Dining experience – an example of rightly planned tourism which serves the want of the visiting tourist as well as the need of the local community.
The Chinese fishing nets are an iconic element of Kochi’s waterscape. Originally introduced by a Chinese explorer, these bamboo platforms line Kochi’s coastline and its inland water bodies. In recent times, climate change is affecting the lives of local fishermen whose lives have been fully dependent on fishing. More days of flooding and increasing salinity means diminishing fishlife, thus impacting their incomes. Many are unable to afford repair costs of the fishing platforms as well. The Blue Yonder thus came up with the idea of bringing the tourist to these very platforms, for a magical culinary experience, where the food is prepared by the fisherman family itself. They benefit from this alternate means of income, while being in their own place of comfort, doing what they have done for ages. They are also trained in using kayaks, boats and canoes, not only increasing their skillset and revenue but also developing them as first responders for crisis management.
Fisherman Prasad’s wife was so kind to prepare a vegan meal for me upon my request, which included steamed tapioca, pineapple chutney, rice, beans curry, Avial, salad and a fresh fruit dessert served with Sulaimani (a Malabar tea).
My arrival in Kerala marked an end to a long-held dream of mine: to visit this land that has always been highly regarded; with its uniquely rich biodiversity and markedly distinct cultural heritage. But to explore it in the way that I got to, surpassed even this fantasy of a dream that I had cooked up over the years.
The 8 days that I spent here were such a close interaction of the ‘visitor’ and the ‘local’ – one that could only arise from an enduring commitment for social empowerment, by the synergetic team at The Blue Yonder – including naturalists, conservationists, historians, and local guides. Each of the experiences were to me lessons in responsible tourism.
My time with the locals and the locality itself definitely struck a deep chord within –
One that’s going to strongly influence my choices on the road forever.
Hi ! We’re Forum and Shiva, two intrepid souls united by our shared love for TRAVEL and SUSTAINABILITY. We met as architectural colleagues and we both spent some years exploring sustainable and socially responsible architecture. Our mutual fascination for vernacular architecture, traditional communities, and the curiosity to witness the natural world.. all led us to build this little nest: Barriers and Borders.
Our mission is simple – to bring you meaningful stories from the small or the big journeys that we make which could allow you to see the world differently. To let you join our journeys through our words.. to touch upon those little details that maybe get missed.. and above all to attempt to give back to the places we are privileged to visit in this lifetime.
Barriers and borders
Vegan Travellers | Eco-Conscious Architects | Love Envoys | Nature enthusiasts
4 Soulful Retreats or Homestays in Kerala to Slow Down and Unwind
Slow down, unwind, and immerse yourself in the beauty of 'God's own...
Read More
Snippets From The Wild: An Architect’s Memoirs from the Land of the Tiger in Central India
Read Shiva's captivating stories and unique experiences as an architect in the...
Read More
7 Off-Beat Experiences within an hour from Munich: A Guide for Nature Lovers
Discover these high-adrenaline, low-carbon activities that showcase Munich's rich biodiversity and stunning...
Read More Barriers and Borders
Hi ! We’re Forum and Shiva, two intrepid souls united by our shared love for TRAVEL and SUSTAINABILITY. We met as architectural colleagues and we both spent some years exploring sustainable and socially responsible architecture. Our mutual fascination for vernacular architecture, traditional communities, and the curiosity to witness the natural world.. all led us to build this little nest: Barriers and Borders.
Our mission is simple – to bring you meaningful stories from the small or the big journeys that we make which could allow you to see the world differently. To let you join our journeys through our words.. to touch upon those little details that maybe get missed.. and above all to attempt to give back to the places we are privileged to visit in this lifetime.
What an incredibly eye-opening adventure ! Loved reading all the intricate details – you write beautifully.
Thank you Neha! So happy to know that you enjoyed reading this!
Pingback:4 Soulful Retreats or Homestays in Kerala to Slow Down and Unwind - Barriers & Borders
Pingback:Vienna to Bratislava - That Girls bike trip - Barriers & Borders