A 10-day tryst with the mighty Himalayas, surrounded by the snow-capped mountains and relishing meals on top of alpine meadows… it just sounded like an irresistible escape from the scorching summers of our respective hometowns: Mumbai and Bangalore.

So when Shiva and I, came across Trek the Himalaya’s Roopkund expedition, we did not think twice. We knew we had to make this trip a reality – because, as they say, the mountains were really calling us, to step out of our city lives!

Roopkund, also known as the Mystery Lake or the Skeleton Lake, is a high-altitude glacial lake situated at 5,020 meters in the Trishul mountain region of Uttarakhand, Northern India. It has gained an eerie reputation due to the presence of numerous human skeletons at such a scenic location. According to local legends, some believe that these skeletons belong to a king’s family and his attendants, who went on a pilgrimage to the Nanda Devi mountain. Recent scientific studies, on the other hand, propose a different theory, as carbon dating revealed that the skeletons not just traced to South Asian genes but also to Europeans! They speculate that an unexpected blizzard hit the area, resulting in the tragic death of hundreds of individuals.

This transfixing mystery of Roopkund continues to attract people from all parts of the world. Driven by the same curiosity, we also set out on this challenging journey. And the hope of witnessing first-hand a gigantic frozen lake at such an altitude only fuelled our anticipation and excitement further.

Trekking the Mighty Himalayas
Staying in local Guesthouses and campsites
The Summit
Tips for trekking Responsibly

Trekking the mighty Himalayas

After registering our expedition with Trek the Himalayas, we received a manual preparing us for this adventure. It included basic tips like physical training drills for improving general endurance as well as other advice like packing light, carrying hydration packs, healthy snacks, and essential mountain gear.

Our journey kicked off with a quick meet-and-greet with our fellow trekkers on the first day. It was interesting to see how each one of us had a distinct purpose for embarking on this trek! In our group of 25, there was also an octogenarian who had already trekked many mountains before Roopkund. And I must admit, he was my inspiration; someone who spent his entire career in a government job, but post-retirement, started trekking. It showed me how age truly has no limits!

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Over the first few days, we passed through charming mountain villages, where the friendly locals waved and wished us luck for our summit. Some of them were busy working in their farms while others headed to their jobs with a smile across their faces. This warmth of the rural atmosphere was already a big contrast to my city life. Our trek leader guided us on our initial ascent through hair pin turns, which fortunately had no vehicles. It was just the 25 of us walking and cheering each other on.

The Himalayan landscapes we encountered in the following days were incredibly vibrant and beautiful. The early summer months of May and June showcased the dominant bright red flowers of the rhododendron. And each day, the scenery changed, from towering pine forests, to free flowing meadows of the Ali and Bedni bugyals, to rocky valleys that stretched wide and far. Most often I found myself so captivated, that I simply wanted to pause, take a deep breath and fully soak in the picturesque surroundings.

Staying in local guesthouses and campsites

The organizers had set up guest-house accommodations for us until we reached the highest villages with inhabitation. After that however, we stayed at campsites. Our days used to begin at 6 in the morning with a gentle bell from the trek leader, followed by a hearty breakfast to fuel our day’s trek. Each day, our goal was to reach a predetermined altitude base camp, usually by the evening, upon which we were advised to acclimatise to the gained altitude and the lowered oxygen levels.

The guesthouses we stayed in were mostly managed by the local community, and chatting with them about their mountain life was truly a delightful experience. The local cuisine they served was delicious, though we were a bit disheartened to learn that most of the ingredients were transported on mule-backs, all the way from the cities below. As people who advocate for animal welfare, we felt guilty to realise that our comfort was coming at the cost of burdening these innocent animals. But I suppose, that’s one of the drawbacks of opting guided treks, where not everything is in our own hands.

At the campsites, there were several tents set up, and they even had one as a portable toilet with clear instructions to use water sparingly. Each one of us had been provided with a trash bag to collect all our trash and bring it back to the city for appropriate disposal. I vividly recall a statement from our trek leader: “Life on the mountains is very fragile; use resources carefully.”, something that I wholeheartedly agreed. Being mindful and responsible in such naturally sensitive areas is crucial. Fortunately, most of our fellow trekkers in the group seemed quite responsible. However, we couldn’t help but notice numerous single-use plastic items left on the mountains by other travellers. It was disheartening, and so we made it a duty to pick as many as we could along our way. Because who is to blame, if we ourselves fail to act?

The summit

A borrowed walking stick and a 10kg backpack loaded with warm clothes and protein bars were the only possessions I had for those 8 days. My phone didn’t work for most days so the only photos that I now have are from my friends who were actively documenting the journey. At times, it was somewhat liberating to realise that the only thing that mattered each day was reaching our basecamp safely. All other worries were close to non-existent.

Walking for 9 hours a day for 8 days at a stretch eventually turned out to be more of a meditative experience. When we would get tired, our trek leader and his assistants would chant “Chalte raho, bas chalte rehna hai,” meaning, just keep walking. Breathing in, moving the right foot; breathing out, moving the left foot: this became my internal mantra. ‘One breath, one step’ echoed in my mind giving me the energy and stamina to conquer each day. In the last few days, when my gut system gave in to the high altitude, my body was running solely on this mantra and water and gave up on any food intake. I even threw up a couple of times, giving in to the exhausting physical conditions. Thanks to the rhododendron flower juice that, at many occasions, played a crucial role in keeping me going.

So finally at the end of day 7, gearing up for the summit to Roopkund, I felt relieved to have endured the physical exertion. “Fasten your harnesses, quickly. We don’t have time. We must reach the lake before sunrise, or the snow will melt, increasing the risk of casualties,” shouted Mahinder Singh, our trek leader. A few moments earlier, even before anybody in the camp had woken up, I had stepped outside my tent, out of overwhelming anxiety, and had caught a midnight glimpse of the mountains. But what I had witnessed was pure magic. It was a full-moon’s night! The massifs glowed in the radiant, white light of the moon, as if the entire landscape was illuminated by a single bulb. Perhaps, that was nature’s way of wishing me luck and strength for the final climb!

Hastily attaching the harness, donning the head torch, and wearing snow spikes over my shoes, I marched with the fellow trekkers. We crossed icy trails with narrow paths while holding onto ropes for support. The valley seemed treacherous, and the fear of missing a step lingered constantly. However, the brave assistants, confidently running on the steep valley slopes, smiled at me, reassuring me that I would be okay and make it through.

Suddenly, at the break of dawn, the mountain unfolded before us in all its glory! Many old people who were returning back from the summit wished us strength for the sight we too were about to witness! Ten steps, five steps, two steps… and there it was – as magnificent as a celestial wonder – The frozen lake of Roopkund! People who walked close to the lake seemed as tiny as ants. Overwhelmed, I teared up and closed my eyes. This was easily one of the most breathtaking sights of my life! I thanked the universe for bringing me to the mountains – for there’s nothing as spectacular as witnessing raw nature in all it’s true might!

At that very moment, my bodily exhaustion floated above, drifting away with the Himalayan winds.

The mountains had called me, and boy, I HAD ARRIVED!

Tips for trekking responsibly

When gearing up for your first trek in the Himalayas, opt for a guided trekking company and check their sustainability reports, if available on their website.
Regardless of the trekking company, ensure you pack all your trash in a dedicated bag and bring it back to the city for proper disposal. The mountain landscapes are home to highly sensitive and diverse wildlife, and leaving trash behind can affect them in more ways that you can imagine.
Bring your own steel or reusable water bottle with purifying filters. Refrain from purchasing single-use plastic items, even if it means devising new ways to carry your essentials.
Understand that high-altitude treks may not offer running hot water showers or luxurious amenities. Locals use natural spring water very conservatively. And if you happen to bathe in natural water bodies, refrain from using soaps and detergents.
Avoid demanding extravagant meals. Rather embrace simplicity and enjoy locally grown foods. This open mindset can allow you to absorb much more about indigenous cultures.
Choose natural skincare products made from eco-friendly materials to avoid harming the local ecosystem.
As much as you can, adopt vegan footwear and warm clothing, encouraging brands that stand up for the planet’s future.
Practice responsible trekking by treading lightly in these fragile environments and you’ll cherish these moments for a lifetime!

Hi ! We’re Forum and Shiva, two intrepid souls united by our shared love for TRAVEL and SUSTAINABILITY. We met as architectural colleagues and we both spent some years exploring sustainable and socially responsible architecture. Our mutual fascination for vernacular architecture, traditional communities, and the curiosity to witness the natural world.. all led us to build this little nest: Barriers and Borders.

Our mission is simple – to bring you meaningful stories from the small or the big journeys that we make which could allow you to see the world differently. To let you join our journeys through our words.. to touch upon those little details that maybe get missed.. and above all to attempt to give back to the places we are privileged to visit in this lifetime.

barriersandborders

🌏 2 Architects who love to Travel the World Responsibly.
🌿 Vegans | Eco-Architects | Nature Enthusiasts
📍Munich, Germany

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Vegan Travellers | Eco-Conscious Architects | Love Envoys | Nature enthusiasts

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Hi Insta-world! ✨With so many new faces joining us, it feels like the perfect time for a reintroduction! 🙋‍♀️🙋We’re Forum & Shiva - partners in travel, life, & adventure. Our journey is about exploring the world with purpose- seeking out sustainable experiences, learning from local cultures, and sharing stories that connect us all. 🌍💚 So here's a (not so short! 😜) look at who we are and what drives us. 🤭Tell us if you resonate with us & with what we do. (Travel Explorers, Sustainable Experiences, Couple Travel, Travel Partners, Responsible Travel, Travel, Sustainability) ... See MoreSee Less

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